LA Lignier & Hubert Lignier Pere & Fils
In the past, Hubert Lignier wines represent value for money. Especially the Grand Cru Clos de La Roche. However after the death of wine maker Romain Lignier, the family change and split into two domaines Lucie et Auguste Lignier & Hubert Lignier Pere & Fils.
"If you have the sensation that you're looking at the range of wines that used to be released by Domaine Hubert Lignier, you're right, you are - except that things are not that simple. Unfortunately family feuds can also occur anywhere in the world and Burgundy is no exception. And at present, this circumstance has become the Burgundian equivalent of the Hatfields and the McCoys, dividing the sleepy little town of Morey unlike any recent drama that I've seen. Everyone seems to have a view as to who is right (and who's not), from producers to Lignier's American importer, indeed even another well known critic that I discussed this with had taken sides! Fans of the domaine will remember that Hubert's son Romain, who tragically died at a very early age two years ago, left an American wife Kellen and two small children. It seems that Mrs. Lignier wishes to continue in her husband's footsteps and make the wine until her children, Lucie and Auguste (hence the name of the domaine) are old enough to take over. Mrs. Lignier has very little practical winemaking experience though has made, according to many people familiar with the situation, an extraordinary effort to acquire same, even doing a brief internship at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti among other activities. From what was explained to me, it further appears that M. Lignier has a different view of the wisdom of this approach and has elected to take back the vineyards that were not fully transferred to his son prior to his death and found a new domaine called Hubert Lignier Père et Fils; apparently there will also be a minor négociant activity as well which will enable Hubert to purchase fruit from Kellen. As one might reasonably suspect, there is a good deal more to this story than propriety allows me to feel comfortable disclosing but suffice it to say that one hopes the spirit of cooperation will reign supreme in the end and inure to the benefit of both parties.
With respect to the wines reviewed below, they are a joint effort of sorts. Both the 2004s and 2005s were vinified by Hubert. Kellen bottled the 2004s and will bottle the 2005s. What is not completely clear is whether any of these wines will also be released by Hubert, either under the old label of Hubert Lignier or under his new label. Presumably if he does release any of them, they will be available through his long-time importers. To further complicate matters, Mrs. Lignier does not yet have importers for any major markets and thus it's not a certainty that the wines will be released and in fact they may be sold to a négociant, which could include M. Lignier. If you're not confused by all of this, congratulations!" Allen Meadow
Is it true that the wines are the same but just sticked with different labels? And we conducted a tasting between two domaines' wines. We can't find Clos de la Roche but the no.2 wines Morey Saint Denis VV. From my memory, Hubert Lignier Morey Saint Denis VV is one of the very best wines from Hubert Lignier, especially 1996 and 1999.
After the death of Romain, Kellen designed to change the name of Morey Saint Denis VV to Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Cuvee Romain, in memory of your Husband.
The corks look identical
Even the lot numbers are the same.
The storage conditions look different, one is darker and one is lighter.
It tasted more oaky.
Higher integration
Findings:
"If you have the sensation that you're looking at the range of wines that used to be released by Domaine Hubert Lignier, you're right, you are - except that things are not that simple. Unfortunately family feuds can also occur anywhere in the world and Burgundy is no exception. And at present, this circumstance has become the Burgundian equivalent of the Hatfields and the McCoys, dividing the sleepy little town of Morey unlike any recent drama that I've seen. Everyone seems to have a view as to who is right (and who's not), from producers to Lignier's American importer, indeed even another well known critic that I discussed this with had taken sides! Fans of the domaine will remember that Hubert's son Romain, who tragically died at a very early age two years ago, left an American wife Kellen and two small children. It seems that Mrs. Lignier wishes to continue in her husband's footsteps and make the wine until her children, Lucie and Auguste (hence the name of the domaine) are old enough to take over. Mrs. Lignier has very little practical winemaking experience though has made, according to many people familiar with the situation, an extraordinary effort to acquire same, even doing a brief internship at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti among other activities. From what was explained to me, it further appears that M. Lignier has a different view of the wisdom of this approach and has elected to take back the vineyards that were not fully transferred to his son prior to his death and found a new domaine called Hubert Lignier Père et Fils; apparently there will also be a minor négociant activity as well which will enable Hubert to purchase fruit from Kellen. As one might reasonably suspect, there is a good deal more to this story than propriety allows me to feel comfortable disclosing but suffice it to say that one hopes the spirit of cooperation will reign supreme in the end and inure to the benefit of both parties.
With respect to the wines reviewed below, they are a joint effort of sorts. Both the 2004s and 2005s were vinified by Hubert. Kellen bottled the 2004s and will bottle the 2005s. What is not completely clear is whether any of these wines will also be released by Hubert, either under the old label of Hubert Lignier or under his new label. Presumably if he does release any of them, they will be available through his long-time importers. To further complicate matters, Mrs. Lignier does not yet have importers for any major markets and thus it's not a certainty that the wines will be released and in fact they may be sold to a négociant, which could include M. Lignier. If you're not confused by all of this, congratulations!" Allen Meadow
Is it true that the wines are the same but just sticked with different labels? And we conducted a tasting between two domaines' wines. We can't find Clos de la Roche but the no.2 wines Morey Saint Denis VV. From my memory, Hubert Lignier Morey Saint Denis VV is one of the very best wines from Hubert Lignier, especially 1996 and 1999.
After the death of Romain, Kellen designed to change the name of Morey Saint Denis VV to Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Cuvee Romain, in memory of your Husband.
The corks look identical
Even the lot numbers are the same.
The storage conditions look different, one is darker and one is lighter.
It tasted more oaky.
Higher integration
Findings:Color: similar
Bodies: medium, similar
Nose: similar but Hubert Lignier MSD VV is more oaky and alcholic, younger
LA Lignier, more integration, more evolved nose.
Verdict: They are the same wines but LA Lignier is cheaper.
由 wonglun 發佈 | 9:40 上午
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