2003 Branaire Ducru , Les Forts de Latour & Plantiers de Haut Brion

幾個人喝了以下幾瓶酒：
2003 Branaire Ducru, Saint Julien, Bordeaux
2003 Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux
2003 Plantiers de Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux
1989 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin, Burgundy

2003 Branaire Ducru, Saint Julien, Bordeaux
http://www.branaire-ducru.com
顏色很深，呈深紫色，很凝縮。一開瓶香味已很開放，很咖啡桶，很純很干淨，已是靚酒款。入口初段很緊，但風格與2000或2002 Branaire Ducru都很相似，只是樣樣都多少少。透氣一小時之後，口感豐厚，很滑及複雜，不俗。如果2000年Branaire Ducru 有93+，那麼2003 Branaire Ducru 最低限度應有94分。 (****)

順帶一題現任Branaire Ducru的莊主是Union des Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 的主席，未知因此獲得Parker 特別照顧？以下是近年Branaire Ducru的表現：

2005 94-96
2004 90-93
2003 95
2002 90
2001 91
2000 93+
1999 89
1998 89
1997 87
1996 89
1995 91

從分數來看，未來Branaire Ducru售價有機會進一步攀升。2003Branaire Ducru 未有Parker 評分之前，英國一箱只售190英磅，評定為95分以後，售價有些賣到385英磅一箱！計香港稅後，原本賣四百幾蚊多元升至八舊水以上。如果見到賣五舊零水，都算合理。Stock Up!

2003 Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux
http://www.chateau-latour.com
正酒拿了Parker 100分滿分，副牌酒2003 Les Forts de Latour也拿了92分的高分，與2002 Les Forts de Latour 看齊。售價幾貴成八舊水，所以開瓶之前有點期待。開瓶香味也很開放，很咖啡桶，但有點右岸feel，一聞便知Merlot成份頗多。入口豐厚，感覺無論香味口感有些像早前喝過的2001 Ausone樣子。酒複雜性亦高，不過回味有些甘甘地，單寧亦略嫌粗些，未夠2003 Branaire Ducru滑正。(***)

The 2003 Les Forts de la Tour possesses a dense ruby/plum/purple color in addition to notions of cold steel, lead pencil shavings, and creme de cassis. Full-bodied, opulent, heady, rich, and lush, it can be drunk now or cellared for 15+ years.

What can one say about proprietor Francois Pinault and his manager, Frederic Engerer? A strong argument can be made that in 2001, 2002, 2003, and 2004, Latour produced the wine of the vintage, although it has plenty of competition in the Northern Medoc in 2003. Moreover, the bargains are the estate’s least expensive cuvee, Pauillac, followed by Les Forts de Latour, Latour’s second wine which continues to increase in quality.


2003 Plantiers de Haut Brion
http://www.chateau-haut-brion.com
印象之中Bordeaux白酒很難拿Parker 高分，而2003Haut Brion Blanc就拿了99接近完美的分數，而2003 Plantiers de Haut Brion就是Haut Brion Blanc的副牌酒，它也拿了有史以來92分的最高分數。不久之前先至喝過2001及1998的Plantiers de Haut Brion，感覺仍新，但不算驚喜。
開瓶香味很開放，有果香及和木桶香味。入口開首好淡，似水。但卻有複雜回味。雖然酸度低但唔滯，要彈就後無乜中段。過首過凍酒的缺點比較明顯，飲此酒要溫度高些。(***)

Les Plantiers, Haut-Brion’s second white wine, is somewhat of an insider’s secret. While typically well-made, it rarely possesses the size of the Laville Haut-Brion or Haut-Brion Blanc. The lovely, full-bodied 2003 Les Plantiers reveals ripe melony notes intermixed with citrus oil and honeysuckle as well as good underlying acidity. It is unusually large-scaled for a second wine. It will drink well for a decade.

1989 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin
Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France
勁香，狀態大。是所喝過的1989 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin最香的一瓶。由陳Sir提供，感謝。口感略為粗糙，但單聞其香已很過癮。(****)