1982 La Grave A Pomerol

先說一個故事，話說八年前方逸華向酒商R君說，1982年的La Grave A Pomerol比1982年的Petrus還要好喝，當時酒商半信半疑，但因舊酒難求，所以一直不能証實1982年的La Grave A Pomerol的質量。翻查Parker的TNs，兩瓶82酒有以下的評價：



1982 Petrus RP98

From barrel, this remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Whether fining and filtration pulled more out of it than was intended, only the proprietor knows. However, the 1982 Petrus turned in a strong performance in Philadelphia in contrast to other tastings when it has been less than spectacular. The color reveals some amber at the edge. A sweet nose of caramel, roasted herbs, cherry jam, cedar, and smoke is followed by a thick, full-bodied, unctuously-textured, low acid Petrus that is approaching full maturity.

This was a dazzling showing for this 1982, which has performed irregularly since birth. Although abundant tannin remains, the wine is sweet, smoky, and ideal for drinking now and over the next 20-25 years. A bottle drunk in France in March, 2000, was equally sublime.

Drink 2000-2025

1982 La Grave A Pomerol (1982 La Grave-Trigant-de-Boisset) RP86

This wine has been fully mature since the late eighties. It offers an attractive, vegetal, fruity nose of olives, pepper, and mocha-tinged cherry fruit. Soft, medium-bodied, and round, with an easy-going personality, this wine continues to drink well, although I see no reason for cellaring it any longer . Tasted 7 times since bottling with consistent notes.

Drink during 1995



La Grave A Pomerol 原名叫做La Grave-Trigant-de-Boisset，但因名字太難記，而它亦是來自Pomerol區，因此簡稱為La Grave A Pomerol。而98年之後，由Petrus莊主所收購，而之後的La Grave A Pomerol，因風格與Petrus相像，因此Parker稱之為小Petrus (特別是1998年La Grave A Pomerol)。而因為兩個莊距離不太遠，La Grave A Pomerol的釀制其實也是Christian Moueix (Petrus莊主) 所睇。見Label。

在2006年酒商R君入了少量價錢合理的1982 La Grave A Pomerol，當然是先試而後快，結果是Parker 的評分又一次準確。

2004 d'Yquem "Y" Dry White Bordeaux

2006-07-27 @ Manly

2002 Leoville Poyferre, Saint Julien 375ml *** good but too young
2003 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 375ml *** low acidity
2004 Jean Noel Gagnard Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru 375ml ***/* better than 2003, more complete
2002 Patrice Rion Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots *** nice nose, elegant but light
1994 Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien *** little leather note, better than 1992, quite good
2002 Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux ***/* great nose, similar to grand vin, medium body and not that complex, but value for money
1996 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley *** old aged napa wine
1989 Grand Mayne, Saint Emilion **** decent aged bordeaux
2004 Chateau d’yquem “Y”*** quite young, better than 2000
2004 Donnhoff Norkeimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese ***/* good drink
1990 Chateau Suduiraut, Sauternes *** as good as usual

1906 Petrus & 1998 Screaming Eagle

有酒友問到為何網頁很久也沒有更新？答案是懶。

日前出席了一位收藏家的酒宴，喝了以下的酒：

1998 Haut Brion Blanc X 2
1934 Chateau Margaux, Margaux
1906 Petrus, Pomerol Magnum (re-label)
1978 DRC Echezeaux, Burgundy
1988 Ponsot Clos de La Roche, Grand Cru, Cuvee VV
1998 Screaming Eagle, Napa Valley

以下便是當天的筆記：



1998 Haut Brion Blanc
翻查Parker的分數，他給予1998 Haut Brion Blanc一個不俗的分數，就是96-100，98及96。如以最後分數計算，它與89、97年同樣高分，暫時只有2003年比它高。

1998年Grave區紅白酒都不錯，而這瓶98 Haut Brion更是頂班貨色。酒的顏色不算深，呈現清澈的黃色，開首香味以果味為主，香味開放。雖然是Sauvignon Blanc及Semillon blending，但沒有單一葡萄主宰香味。入口full bodied及相當圓潤，直情有飲Burgundy Grand Cru 白酒的感覺。兩小時過後，華麗木桶香味才在杯中顯現，勁！*****



1934 Chateau Margaux
一瓶72歲的老酒，Parker沒有TN但Broadbent有。Broadbent認為34年是一個好年份，Broadbent給予4星。而1934年ChateauMargaux更是Broadbent在1934年bordeaux酒之中的至愛，他給予4星的榮譽。不過他也提及34年的bottle variation也頗厲害。

開瓶後不久便落杯，開首香味帶有些微枝梗味，不太純正，亦沒有典型Margaux的花香。但入口medium-full bodied，回味中等長度，tannin已全部溶掉，有小許complexity，感覺上只是一般。是bottle variation嗎？**/*



1906 Petrus Magnum
如果要慶祝2006年，最好是開一瓶1906年100歲的酒，而且是Magnum就更有保障。這瓶1906年Petrus也是沒有Parker的TN，而Broadbent也沒有。但1906年這個年份Broadbent給予3星，算是一個幾好的年份。酒主由英國購入，酒曾經re-label，因此label很新很乾淨。雖然酒曾經re-label但沒有re-cork，因此開瓶之時頗為困難，要用filter去濾cork碎。
酒的顏色仍然很深很紫，像是60、70年代的酒多於像100歲的酒。酒香比較封閉，但入口很dense，很rich，很port like，但仍有bordeaux wine的優雅一面。當人人仍為它缺乏了Petrus應有香味的時候，在杯中兩小時過後，Petrus香味才慢慢散發出來。此時酒的酸度增加但仍平衡，使到酒的口感更加豐富。Amazing wine! ****/*



1978 DRC Echezeaux, Burgundy
香味香得不得了，像花露水的香但來得優雅。口感回味亦佳，很有DRC那種皇者風範，十分之正！*****



1988 Ponsot Clos de La Roche, Grand Cru, Cuvee VV
期待以久的Ponsot Clos de La Roche。Parker的TN 只是幾句說話：

Ponsot's Clos de la Roche-Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is rich, full, and deep, made from vines averaging 35 years in age

最後Parker給予95分。
因為沒有足夠Burgundy杯的關係，結果要用Bordeaux杯喝。加上酒比較封閉，所以無乜香味。但入口就很有口感，很full-bodied，很有層次，屬大酒那類。****



1998 Screaming Eagle, Napa
被矇瓶的神祕酒，酒主認為Parker 94分的分數偏低，此酒的質素亦值95-96分，筆者亦十分同意。

以下是Parker的TN:
The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was bottled in late June, has turned out even better that I thought last year. It boasts a saturated ruby/purple color in addition to an expressive bouquet of cassis, minerals, and smoke. This multi-textured, round wine exhibits sweet, well-integrated tannin, a great mid-palate and finish, as well as spectacular purity and palate presence. Consume it now and over the next 15-20 years.

There are 500 cases of this wine. As most readers know, this wine has become the ultimate collector's Cabernet Sauvignon, routinely fetching $800 to as much as $2000 a bottle at wine auctions. Of course, this makes no sense to me or Screaming Eagle's owner, the amiable Jean Phillips, who sells the wine for $125 a bottle. Unquestionably an exquisite wine, it offers remarkably rich creme de cassis aromas and flavors in an unmanipulated, compelling fashion. The winemaking is assisted by well-known consultant Heidi Barrett. From the red, iron-rich soils of the Oakville District, the wine is aged in 65% new French oak for 18-20 months.



酒的香味不算開放，但也不像一般Napa酒那樣fruity，頗法國feel。感覺上比Robert Mondavi Cab Reserve的簡單直接來得高班！入口就滑淨到不得了，十分silky。酒的body亦足，有豐富的層次，如果忘記價錢，它絕對是一瓶靚酒！****



因為戰鬥力有限，本來還有一瓶1947年d’Yquem並沒有開。