All About Wines

我的相片
姓名:
位置: Hong Kong

星期六, 2月 21, 2009

LA Lignier & Hubert Lignier Pere & Fils

In the past, Hubert Lignier wines represent value for money. Especially the Grand Cru Clos de La Roche. However after the death of wine maker Romain Lignier, the family change and split into two domaines Lucie et Auguste Lignier & Hubert Lignier Pere & Fils.

"If you have the sensation that you're looking at the range of wines that used to be released by Domaine Hubert Lignier, you're right, you are - except that things are not that simple. Unfortunately family feuds can also occur anywhere in the world and Burgundy is no exception. And at present, this circumstance has become the Burgundian equivalent of the Hatfields and the McCoys, dividing the sleepy little town of Morey unlike any recent drama that I've seen. Everyone seems to have a view as to who is right (and who's not), from producers to Lignier's American importer, indeed even another well known critic that I discussed this with had taken sides! Fans of the domaine will remember that Hubert's son Romain, who tragically died at a very early age two years ago, left an American wife Kellen and two small children. It seems that Mrs. Lignier wishes to continue in her husband's footsteps and make the wine until her children, Lucie and Auguste (hence the name of the domaine) are old enough to take over. Mrs. Lignier has very little practical winemaking experience though has made, according to many people familiar with the situation, an extraordinary effort to acquire same, even doing a brief internship at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti among other activities. From what was explained to me, it further appears that M. Lignier has a different view of the wisdom of this approach and has elected to take back the vineyards that were not fully transferred to his son prior to his death and found a new domaine called Hubert Lignier Père et Fils; apparently there will also be a minor négociant activity as well which will enable Hubert to purchase fruit from Kellen. As one might reasonably suspect, there is a good deal more to this story than propriety allows me to feel comfortable disclosing but suffice it to say that one hopes the spirit of cooperation will reign supreme in the end and inure to the benefit of both parties.

With respect to the wines reviewed below, they are a joint effort of sorts. Both the 2004s and 2005s were vinified by Hubert. Kellen bottled the 2004s and will bottle the 2005s. What is not completely clear is whether any of these wines will also be released by Hubert, either under the old label of Hubert Lignier or under his new label. Presumably if he does release any of them, they will be available through his long-time importers. To further complicate matters, Mrs. Lignier does not yet have importers for any major markets and thus it's not a certainty that the wines will be released and in fact they may be sold to a négociant, which could include M. Lignier. If you're not confused by all of this, congratulations!" Allen Meadow

Is it true that the wines are the same but just sticked with different labels? And we conducted a tasting between two domaines' wines. We can't find Clos de la Roche but the no.2 wines Morey Saint Denis VV. From my memory, Hubert Lignier Morey Saint Denis VV is one of the very best wines from Hubert Lignier, especially 1996 and 1999.

After the death of Romain, Kellen designed to change the name of Morey Saint Denis VV to Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Cuvee Romain, in memory of your Husband.



The corks look identical

Even the lot numbers are the same.

The storage conditions look different, one is darker and one is lighter.

It tasted more oaky.
Higher integration
Findings:
Color: similar
Bodies: medium, similar
Nose: similar but Hubert Lignier MSD VV is more oaky and alcholic, younger
LA Lignier, more integration, more evolved nose.
Verdict: They are the same wines but LA Lignier is cheaper.

星期四, 2月 05, 2009

Batard Montrachet Tasting

Wine List

Batard Montrachet
1995 Domaine Marc Morey Batard Montrachet ***/*
1997 Domaine Vincent Leflaive Batard Montrachet ***
1997 Domaine Ramonet Batard Montrachet ***/*
1997 Domaine Verget Batard Montrachet ***
1997 Domaine Sauzet Batard Montrachet **
1997 Domaine Jean Noel Gagnard Batard Montrachet **

Chambolle Musigny Amoureuses
2006 Domaine Louis Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses ***
2006 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chambolle Musigny Les Amoureuses ****

Other wines
2000 Domaine de la Vougeraie Gevrey Chambertin Les Evocelles ***
1998 Chateau Laville Haut Brion Blanc Graves ****
1970 Chateau La Lagune Haut Medoc (not try)







Typical Lefaive, very aromatic, milk powder liked. Sweet in smell, medium to full bodied.


Slightly oxidized, a little bit off, what a pity!


Strong oaky nose, not that balance, angular and bitter aftertaste. After two hours of breathing, slightly improved, the cheapest among the Batard Montrachets in the tasting.


My favourite in the tasting. Elegant nose with complexity, deep and polished finished. Real classy. Nice.


Average performer, typical Verget can have good QPR. Very reliable.


The vintage of 95 is better than 97 for the burgundy white. Minerality, round, rich and oily. Among the tasters, some select this one as WOTN while similar votes to Ramonet.


Not tasted in the event but reserved for the big Montrachet fight. We are accumulating the wines, including Montrachet from Verget, Joseph Drouhin, Jadot, Sauzet, Oliver Lefaive, Thenard ......... and one is even a magnum! It should be fun.


This is very typical burgundy, shows great Pinot Noir characteristics, nice berry fruit with sweet oak, light to medium bodied but very favourful! decent aftertaste and classy. I like it a lot, better that Jadot. Tasted the 2005 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru yesterday, it confirmed that the Chambolle Musigny wines is one the stars from Drouhin! Will try to find out the Musigny from Drouhin.


More powerful, full bodied but also tannic from Jadot CM Amoureuses. It was good but in different style than drouhin, some tasters liked it more than me.


Not tasted since very busy to taste Batard Montrachets and two CM Amoureuses.


Putting a ringer into the burgundy white fight, the performance was not shadowed by Batard Montrachet! Definately Laville Haut Brion is one the greatest Bordeaux whites! Especially 1998 is an outstanding year for Pessac Leognan.


This is a delicious starter wine, Gevery Chambertin "Les Evocelles"


free counters