2006-04-27 dinner @ La Parole - wines

2006-04-27 dinner @ La Parole, wine list
1999 Domaine Comte Senard, Corton, Grand Cru, Burgundy
2002 Domaine Vincent Girardin, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Burgundy
1988 Domaine Gaec Charles Mortet & Fils, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy
2001 Domaine Leroy, Nuits St Georges, Aux Lavieres, Burgundy
2003 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy
2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Romanee Saint Vivant, Grand Cru, Burgundy
1981 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux
1999 Chateau Pavie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux
1995 Chateau Cos D’Estournel, Saint Estephe, Bordeaux

1999 Domaine Comte Senard, Corton, Grand Cru, Burgundy

99年並不是Burgundy白酒的靚年，這瓶也不是Corton Charlemagne，牌子也不知名，所以沒有太大期望。此瓶Corton酸度稍高，帶檸檬酸，桶味不顯。普普通通。5-6百元的Grand Cru是這樣。(**/*)

In the back

2002 Domaine Vincent Girardin, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Burgundy RP93

TN:The 2001 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet displays creamed flower aromas and a seamless, rich, medium-bodied personality. Silky-textured, wide, and deep, it is a forward, expressive, plump wine that does not compromise on purity or detail. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.

全日WOTN，最好喝的一瓶酒。有深度、夠酸度及複雜性。開瓶一段時間香味好開放，有很fresh的burgundy white香，回味長而爽，正。(****)

In the back

1988 Domaine Gaec Charles Mortet & Fils, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy

Dennis Mortet親戚的莊?因為成熟的關係，好香莓味勿與桶味混合，香味值93分。但入口略嫌粗糙，而且酒相當混濁，unfilter?(**/*)

2001 Domaine Leroy, Nuits St Georges, Aux Lavieres, Burgundy

早陣子酒舖進了一批Leroy紅頭village wine其中一瓶，酒香帶有一貫Leroy花味，但不及VR的明顯及細緻。筆並不太喜歡Nuits St Georges的風格，但這瓶尚可。(***/*)它亦是少數當天能喝完的酒。

In the back

2001年1197產量之中，排名第974瓶。罕有乎？

2003 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy RP93

2003年因global warming，所以連Burgundy種植的Pinot Noir帶有Jammy感覺，而據資料顯示，Clos de Vougeot 是比較成功的區域，而Robert Arnoux的Clos de Vougeot 就拿了很高分。不過可能喝早了十年，酒完全不開，沒有太多nose，口感亦緊，就算下了decanter decant，幾小後也沒有太大改善。只知有潛力但現在不過癮。(***)

A muscular, chunky wine, the 2003 Clos de Vougeot explodes from the glass with spicy black fruits. Medium to full-bodied and powerful, this deep mouth-coating effort is crammed with chocolate-covered black cherries. Its impressively prolonged finish reveals considerable tannin that is solid, yet ripe. Drink it between 2010 and 2020. Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

In the back

2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Romanee Saint Vivant, Grand Cru, Burgundy RP95

貨源來自星加坡，折合港元3000右。理應是Robert Arnoux最好一瑰田之一，加上靚年，大家有些期望。不過希望愈大、失望愈大。與03年Clos De Vougeot一樣完全唔開。難道進入了dumb phrase? (***)

Toasty black cherries and violets make up the beguiling aromas of the 2002 Romanee-St.-Vivant. This suave, feminine wine is reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn because of its hugely elegant, extraordinarily pretty, and graceful personality. Medium-bodied, it displays a concentrated core of fruit made up of mocha-tinged blackberries, dark cherries, and hints of tar. Its impressively prolonged finish exhibits loads of sweet, supple tannin. Projected maturity: 2007-2018.

BTW, 03年Robert Arnoux的Clos De Vougeot及02年Romanee Saint Vivant已是Wine Advocate所給予最高分數(95分)的兩瓶酒。剩餘一瓶是02年的Clos De Vougeot。

In the back

1981 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux RP89

舊的一瓶Pomerol，沒有太特別的東西可說。(**/*)

This wine has just begun its slide down the slippery slope. It was an outstanding La Conseillante that drank beautifully young. Once the baby fat began to fade in the mid-nineties, the wine was less enticing, although still an excellent, and perhaps outstanding if drunk from larger format bottles (i.e., magnum). The wine possesses a deep ruby color with some lightening at the edge. The toasty, cherry and raspberry-scented nose is followed by smoky, roasted herb, sweet cherry and raspberry flavors judiciously infused with spicy oak. The acidity is adequate, and the tannin and fat have faded away. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted 11/97

1999 Chateau Pavie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux RP95

不知道為何Pavie會這樣大爭議，但這瓶肯定是靚酒。先後喝過三瓶也一樣覺得好喝。有花香、厚身而複雜，長finish。當日最好的一瓶紅酒。(****)

The 1999 Pavie is a candidate for "wine of the vintage". It boasts an opaque ruby/purple color in addition to gorgeous aromas of crushed minerals, smoke, licorice, cherry liqueur, and black currants. The wine is exceptionally pure and multilayered, with stunning texture and overall balance. The tannin level suggests 3-4 years of cellaring is warranted; it should age gracefully for 25+ years. If readers are wondering why Pavie has become so much better under the administration of Chantal and Gerard Perse, keep in mind that yields are one-third of what they were under the previous owners.

1995 Chateau Cos D’Estournel, Saint Estephe, Bordeaux RP95
Nose好香，典型Cos的咖啡香。但入口有些薄，回味有些苦，Tannin dry out。是bottle variation還是儲藏問題？印象中以前喝過的好好多。(**/*?)

A wine of extraordinary intensity and accessibility, the 1995 Cos d'Estournel is a sexier, more hedonistic offering than the muscular, backward 1996. Opulent, with forward aromatics (gobs of black fruits intermixed with toasty pain grille scents and a boatload of spice), this terrific Cos possesses remarkable intensity, full body, and layers of jammy fruit nicely framed by the wine's new oak. Because of low acidity and sweet tannin, the 1995 will be difficult to resist young, although it will age for 2-3 decades. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2025. Both the 1995 and 1996 vintages of Cos d'Estournel were even more impressive in late 1997 than earlier in the spring.