The Water Drop of God

「神之水滴」
台灣版與香港版有何不同？
答案就是書名：「神之水滴」...........
謝謝Swork幫筆買台灣版「神之水滴」第一冊。

2003 Clos Des Papes & 2000 Leroy Vosne-Romanée : "Les Genaivrières"

2006-04-29 @ Manly

2003 Clos Des Papes, chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone
2000 Chateau Boy-Cantenac, Margaux, Bordeaux
2001 Clos Haut Peyraguey 375ml, 1er Cru, Sauternes, Bordeaux
2000 Domaine Leroy, Vosne-Romanée : "Les Genaivrières"



2003 Clos Des Papes, chateauneuf du Pape, Rhone, RP97先看以下Parker的Tasting Note:

The 2003 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape (the # 2 wine in the Wine Spectator’s annual winefest) has long been one of the most profound wines of the vintage. It somehow manages to offer the vintage’s character in power, high glycerin, and huge volume, but retains remarkable elegance and finesse that is so much in keeping with the style of Clos des Papes. The wine has a dense ruby/purple-tinged color and a wonderfully sweet nose of framboise, blackberry, and kirsch liqueur intermixed with Chinese black tea and licorice. The wine is full-bodied and voluptuous, but once past all the glycerin and beautiful, dense fruit of this full-bodied wine, there is striking purity, elegance, finesse, and surprising freshness. Still primary, it looks set to have a long life of 20-25 or more years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025.

見到City’s Super標價02/03年Clos Des Papes 賣385，但買極都買不到，原來因價錢太平關係，酒友Y君就以580+左右買到。其實由98年飲起，支支都高分，但無支好飲，唔係太Spicy，就是太藥材味。這瓶Clos Des Papes幾乾淨，唔會太Spicy或太藥材味，好深同幾容。整体上都幾好，要比分會係92分，同Bordeaux比減5分就差不多。(***)



2001 Clos Haut Peyraguey 375ml, 1er Cru, Sauternes, Bordeaux , RP92好香，好香。香味甚至有d’Yquem feel。入口亦很rich，唯略甜，有一定複雜度，比01 Fihot要好。01年Sauternes 現在大多好飲，正！(***/*)

A big time sleeper of the vintage, Clos Haut Peyraguey’s 2001 exhibits abundant amounts of Grand Marnier-like orange flavors intermixed with creme brulee, melted caramels, and hints of pineapples and apricots. Full-bodied, sweet, long, and well-defined, it should drink well for 15+ years.


2000 Domaine Leroy, Vosne-Romanée : "Les Genaivrières"

http://www.domaineleroy.com/GB_presentation.htm

Leroy 的 Burgundy對於筆來說是至愛的 Burgundy之一。由 Grand Cru、Premier Cru 以致 Village Wine 一樣咁正。就算最基本的 Village Wine，也要賣USD100 以上，計完稅便要HK$1000 – HK$2000左右，當然是指紅頭( Domaine Wine)而不是白頭(Negociant Wine)。
莊主Lalou Bize-Leroy是完美主義，Leroy酒的yield rate只有其他酒莊的三分之一，原則上酒的concentration亦應比人三倍，酒價亦反應這事實(比同級貴三倍以上！)。
很多人認為Leroy的Vosne-Romanée : "Les Genaivrières"是Leroy village wine 之中最正一支。筆非常認同，2000 Vosne-Romanée : "Les Genaivrières" 帶有很甜Leory花香香味，很優雅，很清幽，能表達Vosne-Romanée優雅的一面，比其他酒莊的Vosne-Romanée PremierCru仲要靚得多。入口圓潤而舒服，靚Burgundy理應如此。(****)

2000 Chateau Boy-Cantenac, Margaux, Bordeaux RP89見另文。

2006-04-27 dinner @ La Parole - wines

2006-04-27 dinner @ La Parole, wine list
1999 Domaine Comte Senard, Corton, Grand Cru, Burgundy
2002 Domaine Vincent Girardin, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Burgundy
1988 Domaine Gaec Charles Mortet & Fils, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy
2001 Domaine Leroy, Nuits St Georges, Aux Lavieres, Burgundy
2003 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy
2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Romanee Saint Vivant, Grand Cru, Burgundy
1981 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux
1999 Chateau Pavie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux
1995 Chateau Cos D’Estournel, Saint Estephe, Bordeaux

1999 Domaine Comte Senard, Corton, Grand Cru, Burgundy

99年並不是Burgundy白酒的靚年，這瓶也不是Corton Charlemagne，牌子也不知名，所以沒有太大期望。此瓶Corton酸度稍高，帶檸檬酸，桶味不顯。普普通通。5-6百元的Grand Cru是這樣。(**/*)

In the back

2002 Domaine Vincent Girardin, Bienvenues Batard Montrachet, Grand Cru, Burgundy RP93

TN:The 2001 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet displays creamed flower aromas and a seamless, rich, medium-bodied personality. Silky-textured, wide, and deep, it is a forward, expressive, plump wine that does not compromise on purity or detail. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802 Note: Vincent Girardin also bottles some of these same wines under the Baron de la Charriere label, imported by Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565.

全日WOTN，最好喝的一瓶酒。有深度、夠酸度及複雜性。開瓶一段時間香味好開放，有很fresh的burgundy white香，回味長而爽，正。(****)

In the back

1988 Domaine Gaec Charles Mortet & Fils, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy

Dennis Mortet親戚的莊?因為成熟的關係，好香莓味勿與桶味混合，香味值93分。但入口略嫌粗糙，而且酒相當混濁，unfilter?(**/*)

2001 Domaine Leroy, Nuits St Georges, Aux Lavieres, Burgundy

早陣子酒舖進了一批Leroy紅頭village wine其中一瓶，酒香帶有一貫Leroy花味，但不及VR的明顯及細緻。筆並不太喜歡Nuits St Georges的風格，但這瓶尚可。(***/*)它亦是少數當天能喝完的酒。

In the back

2001年1197產量之中，排名第974瓶。罕有乎？

2003 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Clos De Vougeot, Grand Cru, Burgundy RP93

2003年因global warming，所以連Burgundy種植的Pinot Noir帶有Jammy感覺，而據資料顯示，Clos de Vougeot 是比較成功的區域，而Robert Arnoux的Clos de Vougeot 就拿了很高分。不過可能喝早了十年，酒完全不開，沒有太多nose，口感亦緊，就算下了decanter decant，幾小後也沒有太大改善。只知有潛力但現在不過癮。(***)

A muscular, chunky wine, the 2003 Clos de Vougeot explodes from the glass with spicy black fruits. Medium to full-bodied and powerful, this deep mouth-coating effort is crammed with chocolate-covered black cherries. Its impressively prolonged finish reveals considerable tannin that is solid, yet ripe. Drink it between 2010 and 2020. Importer: Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

In the back

2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux, Romanee Saint Vivant, Grand Cru, Burgundy RP95

貨源來自星加坡，折合港元3000右。理應是Robert Arnoux最好一瑰田之一，加上靚年，大家有些期望。不過希望愈大、失望愈大。與03年Clos De Vougeot一樣完全唔開。難道進入了dumb phrase? (***)

Toasty black cherries and violets make up the beguiling aromas of the 2002 Romanee-St.-Vivant. This suave, feminine wine is reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn because of its hugely elegant, extraordinarily pretty, and graceful personality. Medium-bodied, it displays a concentrated core of fruit made up of mocha-tinged blackberries, dark cherries, and hints of tar. Its impressively prolonged finish exhibits loads of sweet, supple tannin. Projected maturity: 2007-2018.

BTW, 03年Robert Arnoux的Clos De Vougeot及02年Romanee Saint Vivant已是Wine Advocate所給予最高分數(95分)的兩瓶酒。剩餘一瓶是02年的Clos De Vougeot。

In the back

1981 Chateau La Conseillante, Pomerol, Bordeaux RP89

舊的一瓶Pomerol，沒有太特別的東西可說。(**/*)

This wine has just begun its slide down the slippery slope. It was an outstanding La Conseillante that drank beautifully young. Once the baby fat began to fade in the mid-nineties, the wine was less enticing, although still an excellent, and perhaps outstanding if drunk from larger format bottles (i.e., magnum). The wine possesses a deep ruby color with some lightening at the edge. The toasty, cherry and raspberry-scented nose is followed by smoky, roasted herb, sweet cherry and raspberry flavors judiciously infused with spicy oak. The acidity is adequate, and the tannin and fat have faded away. Anticipated maturity: Now. Last tasted 11/97

1999 Chateau Pavie, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux RP95

不知道為何Pavie會這樣大爭議，但這瓶肯定是靚酒。先後喝過三瓶也一樣覺得好喝。有花香、厚身而複雜，長finish。當日最好的一瓶紅酒。(****)

The 1999 Pavie is a candidate for "wine of the vintage". It boasts an opaque ruby/purple color in addition to gorgeous aromas of crushed minerals, smoke, licorice, cherry liqueur, and black currants. The wine is exceptionally pure and multilayered, with stunning texture and overall balance. The tannin level suggests 3-4 years of cellaring is warranted; it should age gracefully for 25+ years. If readers are wondering why Pavie has become so much better under the administration of Chantal and Gerard Perse, keep in mind that yields are one-third of what they were under the previous owners.

1995 Chateau Cos D’Estournel, Saint Estephe, Bordeaux RP95
Nose好香，典型Cos的咖啡香。但入口有些薄，回味有些苦，Tannin dry out。是bottle variation還是儲藏問題？印象中以前喝過的好好多。(**/*?)

A wine of extraordinary intensity and accessibility, the 1995 Cos d'Estournel is a sexier, more hedonistic offering than the muscular, backward 1996. Opulent, with forward aromatics (gobs of black fruits intermixed with toasty pain grille scents and a boatload of spice), this terrific Cos possesses remarkable intensity, full body, and layers of jammy fruit nicely framed by the wine's new oak. Because of low acidity and sweet tannin, the 1995 will be difficult to resist young, although it will age for 2-3 decades. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2025. Both the 1995 and 1996 vintages of Cos d'Estournel were even more impressive in late 1997 than earlier in the spring.

2006-04-27 dinner @ La Parole - food

2006-04-27 dinner @ La Parole
Supreme Set Dinner 8-Course
1. Baked Shittake Mushroom Stuffed with Crab, Scallops and Ricotta Cheese
2. Belgian White Asparagus Flemish Style
3. Lobster Bisque (French Style)
4. Pan-Fried Goose Liver and Caramelized Apple with Madeira Sauce
5. Sorbet
6. Escargot Wonton
7. Grilled Angus Tenderloin on Wild Mushroom and Crispy Zuchinni in Gravy
8. Dessert Platter
9. Coffee or Tea
+ Belgian Mussels

1. Baked Shittake Mushroom Stuffed with Crab, Scallops and Ricotta Cheese

2. Belgian White Asparagus Flemish Style

Belgian Mussels

3. Lobster Bisque (French Style)

4. Pan-Fried Goose Liver and Caramelized Apple with Madeira Sauce

5. Sorbet

6. Escargot Wonton

7. Grilled Angus Tenderloin on Wild Mushroom and Crispy Zuchinni in Gravy

8. Dessert Platter

2003 Branaire Ducru , Les Forts de Latour & Plantiers de Haut Brion

幾個人喝了以下幾瓶酒：
2003 Branaire Ducru, Saint Julien, Bordeaux
2003 Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux
2003 Plantiers de Haut Brion, Pessac Leognan, Bordeaux
1989 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin, Burgundy

2003 Branaire Ducru, Saint Julien, Bordeaux
http://www.branaire-ducru.com
顏色很深，呈深紫色，很凝縮。一開瓶香味已很開放，很咖啡桶，很純很干淨，已是靚酒款。入口初段很緊，但風格與2000或2002 Branaire Ducru都很相似，只是樣樣都多少少。透氣一小時之後，口感豐厚，很滑及複雜，不俗。如果2000年Branaire Ducru 有93+，那麼2003 Branaire Ducru 最低限度應有94分。 (****)

順帶一題現任Branaire Ducru的莊主是Union des Grand Cru Classe Bordeaux 的主席，未知因此獲得Parker 特別照顧？以下是近年Branaire Ducru的表現：

2005 94-96
2004 90-93
2003 95
2002 90
2001 91
2000 93+
1999 89
1998 89
1997 87
1996 89
1995 91

從分數來看，未來Branaire Ducru售價有機會進一步攀升。2003Branaire Ducru 未有Parker 評分之前，英國一箱只售190英磅，評定為95分以後，售價有些賣到385英磅一箱！計香港稅後，原本賣四百幾蚊多元升至八舊水以上。如果見到賣五舊零水，都算合理。Stock Up!

2003 Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, Bordeaux
http://www.chateau-latour.com
正酒拿了Parker 100分滿分，副牌酒2003 Les Forts de Latour也拿了92分的高分，與2002 Les Forts de Latour 看齊。售價幾貴成八舊水，所以開瓶之前有點期待。開瓶香味也很開放，很咖啡桶，但有點右岸feel，一聞便知Merlot成份頗多。入口豐厚，感覺無論香味口感有些像早前喝過的2001 Ausone樣子。酒複雜性亦高，不過回味有些甘甘地，單寧亦略嫌粗些，未夠2003 Branaire Ducru滑正。(***)

The 2003 Les Forts de la Tour possesses a dense ruby/plum/purple color in addition to notions of cold steel, lead pencil shavings, and creme de cassis. Full-bodied, opulent, heady, rich, and lush, it can be drunk now or cellared for 15+ years.

What can one say about proprietor Francois Pinault and his manager, Frederic Engerer? A strong argument can be made that in 2001, 2002, 2003, and 2004, Latour produced the wine of the vintage, although it has plenty of competition in the Northern Medoc in 2003. Moreover, the bargains are the estate’s least expensive cuvee, Pauillac, followed by Les Forts de Latour, Latour’s second wine which continues to increase in quality.


2003 Plantiers de Haut Brion
http://www.chateau-haut-brion.com
印象之中Bordeaux白酒很難拿Parker 高分，而2003Haut Brion Blanc就拿了99接近完美的分數，而2003 Plantiers de Haut Brion就是Haut Brion Blanc的副牌酒，它也拿了有史以來92分的最高分數。不久之前先至喝過2001及1998的Plantiers de Haut Brion，感覺仍新，但不算驚喜。
開瓶香味很開放，有果香及和木桶香味。入口開首好淡，似水。但卻有複雜回味。雖然酸度低但唔滯，要彈就後無乜中段。過首過凍酒的缺點比較明顯，飲此酒要溫度高些。(***)

Les Plantiers, Haut-Brion’s second white wine, is somewhat of an insider’s secret. While typically well-made, it rarely possesses the size of the Laville Haut-Brion or Haut-Brion Blanc. The lovely, full-bodied 2003 Les Plantiers reveals ripe melony notes intermixed with citrus oil and honeysuckle as well as good underlying acidity. It is unusually large-scaled for a second wine. It will drink well for a decade.

1989 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin
Gevrey Chambertin, Cote de Nuits, Burgundy, France
勁香，狀態大。是所喝過的1989 Domaine Maume Mazis Chambertin最香的一瓶。由陳Sir提供，感謝。口感略為粗糙，但單聞其香已很過癮。(****)

2003 Leoville Poyferre & Branaire Ducru

Robert Parker 剛剛發表了2003 bordeaux 既分數，而特別的是有3瓶酒拿了100分滿分，分別是
2003 Latour RP100 (Les Forts de Latour RP92, Pauillac de Latour RP91?)
2003 Lafite RP100 (Carraudes de Lafite RP93!)
2003 Ausone RP100 (La Chapelle dAusone RP93)

其餘1st growth分數如下:
2003 Chateau Margaux RP99 (Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux RP92!)
2003 Mouton Rothschild RP95
2003 Haut Brion RP95 (Bahans Haut Brion RP89)
Haut Brion Blanc RP99! (Plantiers Haut Brion Blanc RP92!)
2003 Cheval Blanc RP89
2003 Petrus RP95

不過最令人驚喜是Branaire Ducru 及 Leoville Poyferre，因為兩取了有史以來最高評分。2003 Branaire Ducru 拿了95分而2003 Leoville Poyferre取了98極高分數。有機會必定要找來試試，希望價錢唔好升得咁快！

2003 Leoville Poyferre RP98
I have had this wine three times out of bottle, rating it 97 once and 98 twice. It is a colossal success and a potential legend in the making. Its saturated, dense inky/blue/purple color offers up notes of crushed rocks, acacia flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, and creme de cassis. A synthesis of power and elegance, this multi-layered wine has spectacular concentration, sweet but high tannin, and low acidity A stunning effort that showcases this legendary terroir, it is a brilliant, brilliant success. The quintessential Leoville Poyferre? Anticipated maturity: 2009-2030.

2003 Branaire Ducru RP95
Proprietor Patrick Maroteaux, president of Unions des Grands Crus Classes, is pulling out all the stops to make Branaire as alluring as several of the Leovilles and Ducru Beaucaillou. 2003 and 2004 may be the finest back-to-back vintages ever produced at Branaire. Even better than the 1982, the profound 2003 Branaire Ducru boasts a saturated plum/purple color as well as an extraordinarily complex nose of black currants, blackberries, espresso roast, white chocolate, minerals, and truffles. It displays amazing freshness and definition for such a complex, complete, and full-bodied wine. A brilliant effort in the vintage, it will undoubtedly close down in several years and need more time, but perhaps its low acidity and huge, extravagant fruit-forwardness will keep it drinking well over the next two decades. A brilliant wine!

2000 Cantemerle & La Dame de Montrose

TNs @ Manly 2006-04-20 Thursday

人少少，兩支酒。
2000 Chateau La Dame de Montrose
2000 Chateau Cantemerle




2000 Chateau Cantemerle最近番飲2000酒，非那些大酒的2000酒，大多幾好飲。而2000 Cantemerle 就是其中一瓶。有近似熟Margaux區酒(唔係Chateau Margaux)香味，入口仲幾重body，無剛入樽那時咁水。有一定complexity，以三舊幾來說物值幾高。(***)
順帶一提，最近喝過一瓶96年Cantermerle就超正，有熟透bordeaux feel。而5-10年之後，2000 Cantemerle質素應會超越96。而市場就吹水05年Cantemerle會正過89 Cantemerle，信乎？




2000 Chateau La Dame de Montrose
La Dame de Montrose是Chateau Montrose的副牌，近年質素唔錯，特別係98年之後。而2000 Parker 更給予90分的平分。幾年前飲2000 既La Dame de Montrose
就覺得澀同苦，但酒香幾干淨。今次酒香似正酒，果味同桶味幾融和，有點最近鏞記飲那瓶94 Montrose feel。不過一小時過去，aftertaste仲有苦澀，可能是Press wine用多既結果。2010年之後再試。(***+)

TNs of 2006-04-19

2001 Chateau De Fieuzal Blanc, Pessac Leognan開首香味不明顯，有淡。一個鐘之後，香味重現，華麗01年桶味好搶，不俗。 (***/*)


2005 Sacred Hill Whitecliff Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand普普通通一瓶恰如其份既New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc，有番石榴香味，唔會太甜，以百多元來說，物值幾高。(**/*)


1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac屬於過去幾次以來表現最好一瓶89 Lynch Bages。香味純正，無皮味。入口full body而且finish好長而有層次，屬於罕有正斗Lynch Bages。(****)


1988 Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol期望愈高，失望愈大。88年右岸酒大Tannin。88 Lafleur亦不例外。開首一小時無nose。口感亦緊，唔過癮。要四小時以後才有點Pomerol味出現。似乎88 Pensee de Lafluer 仲好。(***)


1986 Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien皮味，類似Talbot，一貫Cordier廠那款，不過不算厲害，尚可接受。而86年一貫不是自己所喜歡的，所以這瓶86 Gruaud Larose亦不例外。Tannin有融和跡象，入口尚算平和，不會太澀。(***)


2003 d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren ValeParker 澳州95分酒。同Bordeaux拍酒，一如過往要減5分。因為少人飲的關係，它有充足時間decanter轉化。臨尾好開放，有Grange或707nose，入口舒服，幾好幾好。(***)


1998 Dom Perignon, Champagne一早知唔可以同96 Dom Perignon比較，但估唔到質素差咁遠。幾甜幾易飲易明，不會太酸，幾crowd pleasant。但非常簡單而且賣價貴過96 Dom Perignon。而據聞所有香檳會5月再加價。現在98 Dom Perignon list price 巳要HK$ 1180，加完價豈不要HK1500+?不如飲Bollinger NV好過。(***)

2006-04-19 @ Manly Some Old Bordeaux

七個人七支酒

2006-04-19 @ Manly

2005 Sacred Hill Whitecliff Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand
2001 Chateau De Fieuzal Blanc, Pessac Leognan
1989 Chateau Lynch Bages, Pauillac
1986 Chateau Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien
1988 Chateau Lafleur, Pomerol
2003 d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale
1998 Dom Perignon, Champagne

2000 Haut Bages Averous

2000 Haut Bages Averous 與 Grand Cru Classe Haut Bages Liberal 無關係，它其實是5級莊Lynch Bages 的副牌酒。03年從萬利買了數瓶半瓶裝，只剩餘這一瓶半瓶裝。希望它成熟一點才喝。還記得那時剛入瓶那段時間喝，十分之澀，多單寧，比較simple，沒有正酒的風範。但最近喝過一瓶97年Haut Bages Averous就十分之討好，甚有Lynch Bages的影子。

開瓶後酒的顏色沒有數年前的深，呈寶紅色， 有一點成熟的感覺。入口亦沒有當年的澀，但仍然很新，要再陳年。屬於中規中矩的酒。不過就完全不像Lynch Bages。(**/*)

以它的質量與價格比，根本不應該那麼暢銷，但夾著正酒的名氣，才這樣好賣吧！